- St. Olaf Custodial Methods
- Emptying Trash Receptacles
- Chalkboard Care
- Dusting Building Surfaces and Furnishings
- Furniture Polishing
- Spot Cleaning Glass
- Metal Cleaning
- Spot Cleaning Walls and Furnishings
- Wall and Ceiling Washing
- Cleaning Water Fountains
- Cleaning Sinks and Washbasins
- Cleaning Cammodes
- Cleaning Urinals
- Cleaning Tubs and Showers
- Carpet Vacuuming
- Spot Cleaning Carpet
- Dust Mopping
- Manual Sweeping
- Spot Mopping
- Damp Mopping
- Wet Mopping
- Automatic Scrubbing
- Spray Buffing
- Dry-Foam Carpert Shampooing
- Carpet Cleaning-Water Extraction Method
- Scrubbing Floors
- Stripping Waxed or Finished Floors
- Applying Wax or Synthetic Floor Finishes
- Applying Solvent Sealer
Custodial Services Table of Contents
St. Olaf Custodial Methods
The following section contains methods that we feel will enable you to achieve high ratings on your evaluations. They are adapted from the book “Facilities Management, a Manual forPlant Administrators”. This book was edited by the Association of Physical Plant Administrators of Colleges and Universities (APPA). APPA is an organization of plant administrators from colleges and universities of all sizes and types. The organization is a great resource to all of us in this business, because the expertise comes from the peoplewho have been doing these jobs successfully for years. The book is a collection of chapterswritten by members who are leaders in their specialties.
This section may seem somewhat simplistic, and is not included because we think you do not know what you are doing. It is included because it is often good for all of us to have a guide so that we can better understand what is expected of us.
Again, we will not get into methodology ahead of results. We believe that our staff is among the best in the country. Performance is the top and bottom line at St. Olaf. We believe that we need to make our expectations very clear, provide a means of evaluating your efforts, get you quick and accurate feedback, and provide reinforcement (positive or negative) in a timely manner.
This section has been included to provide you with a strong reference base. If you are having problems with evaluations in one area, check the methods section and compare it with your process. Please check your frequencies against those suggested earlier. We believe that frequency and method, combined with honest effort will resolve any problems we might have.
Emptying Trash Receptacles
- Materials
- Custodial cart with trash collection receptacle attached
- Detergent solution in plastic spray bottle
- Clean rags and sponges
- Supply of plastic trash can liners
- Metal polish
- Preparation of Materials
- Prepare a detergent solution in the plastic bottle in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Dampen a rag or sponge with the solution and keep another rag clean and dry.
- Instructions
- Empty the trash receptacle into the trash collection bag on the cart. Do not reach into the waste basket, but carefully dump the contents into the bag.
- If the plastic liner in the can is torn, soiled or wet, replace it from the supply on the cart.
- If the inside of the waste basket itself is soiled or wet, damp wipe the inside using the detergent solution and a sponge or rag.
- Damp wipe the outside of the basket to remove soil and smudges. If the receptacle is stainless steel or another bright metal, use the polish to remove smudges and finger prints.
- When the trash collection bag is full, remove it and place it at the designated pickup location. Do not place trash bags on carpeted floors as liquids may seep out and stain the carpeting. If necessary, place a folded plastic liner under the collection bag to catch any spills that may occur.
Chalkboard Care
- Materials
- One clean felt eraser
- One clean, dry chamois skin or loosely knit, soft cotton cloth
- One damp rag or damp sponge
- Areas Where Applicable
- The following method should be used on all types of chalkboards, slate blackboards as well as synthetic boards in common use. They are not applicable for the new boards designed for use with the liquid crayon type markers.
- Preparation of Equipment
- Clean the felt eraser and chamois or cloth if necessary. The eraser should be vacuumed, and chamois or cloth shaken to remove dust. Never wash the chamois.
- Preparation of the Area
- Collect all erasers and pieces of chalk, and move them to one end of the chalk tray.
- Instructions
- Use the felt eraser to erase the entire board, except for areas marked “Save” or “Do Not Erase”, do not be picky about this, if the exact text is not right, but the meaning clear, save the area.
- After erasing, wipe the entire board with the chamois or cloth.
- Damp wipe the entire chalk tray with a well wrung sponge or rag. Never apply a damp cloth to the board itself.
- While wiping the chalk tray, collect and discard small pieces of chalk.
- Do not put felt erasers with the erasing surface down in a damp chalk tray.
- Cleanup
- After all chalkboards in an area have been cleaned, vacuum the felt eraser, shake out the chamois or cloth, and rinse out the rag or sponge that was used top clean out the chalk tray.
Dusting Building Surfaces and Furnishings
- Materials
- Treated dust cloths
- Short-handled dusting tools
- Portable tank vacuum with attachments
- Whisk broom
- Areas Where Applicable
- Horizontal surfaces include the tops of desks, tables, cabinets, and similar surfaces, ledges,window sills, decorative moldings, wall-mounted HVAC vents, and venetian blinds.
- Vertical surfaces include sides of desks, tables cabinets, furniture legs, picture frames doors and moldings.
- Instructions
- Dust furniture surfaces using the treated dust cloth or short- handled dusting tool. items such as telephones, desk-sets, and picture frames should be dusted, avoiding those things which appear too fragile to be handled safely. Papers, books and other work material left on tops of furniture should not be moved. Never read or look through paperwork left on furniture.
- A short-handled dusting tool should be used to dust wall surfaces up to a height of about eight feet, and most low surfaces.
- Move the treated cloth or dusting tool over the surface so that the dust particles are trapped in the fibers, avoid snapping, flicking or shaking the dust cloth or tool, which would redistribute the dust to other surfaces.
- To dust decorative moldings, venetian blinds, upholstered furniture and other irregular surfaces, use a portable tank vacuum equipped with a soft brush attachment. Use a whisk broom to remove soil from crevices in upholstered furniture.
- Cleanup
- Vacuum dusting tool heads after use. if dusting cloths or tools become soiled and lose their effectiveness, send them to be laundered and retreated. If dust cloth is the disposable type, and is no longer usable, discard it properly.
Furniture Polishing
- Materials
- Furniture polish in an aerosol can
- Several clean, soft cloths
- Areas Where Applicable
- Good quality furniture polish may be used on almost any non-fabric surface. Wood, metal, vinyl, plastic etc.
- Preparation of the Area
- On desks, tables and other work surfaces, move all items to one side unless specific instruction have been given to leave items alone.
- Instructions
- Unless directions on the product differ, hold the can about eight inches from the surface, and spray the area lightly.
- Wipe immediately with a soft, clean cloth. do not allow the spray to dry before wiping.
- On narrow surfaces where much of the spray may be wasted, such as arm chairs, or on areas where the spray may wet and damage papers, spray the cloth and then wipe the area. Wipe again with a clean cloth.
- After the exposed part of the surface has been completed, move the materials to the other side and repeat the procedure.
- Cleanup
- Rinse all the cloths in warm water, wring them so that they do not drip, and hang to dry.
Spot Cleaning Glass
- Materials
- Glass cleaner solution in a plastic spray bottle
- Several, clean dry cloths or paper towels
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Any glass surface that is likely to be touched by someone. Glass doors, mirrors, and glass partitions are examples of areas that require frequent spot cleaning.
- Preparation of Materials
- If glass cleaning solution has not already been mixed, do so. Fill the spray bottle approximately 3/4 full of clean water, and add the appropriate amount of glass cleaning concentrate. remember that instructions for dilution are usually given in ounces per gallon. Spray bottles normally hold between 1/8 and 1/4 gallon. A full cup is eight ounces.
- Preparation of the Area
- If spot cleaning is done on a door in a high traffic area, it may be necessary to prop the door open so that traffic and the cleaning process do not interfere with each other.
- Instructions
- Spray visibly soiled areas with a small amount of the cleaning solution. Avoid spraying so much that it begins to drip or run.
- Wipe the area with a dry cloth or paper towel.
- Be sure to wipe off any cleaner that may have gotten on frames or other non-glass materials that border the area to be cleaned.
- Cleanup
- Rinse and wring dry any cloths used. If the glass cleaning solution is to be left in the bottle for future use, properly label the bottle according to the Right to Know rules in the RTK manual. Dispose of any paper toweling used.
Metal Cleaning
- Materials
- Neutral detergent solution in a plastic spray bottle
- Lotion or creme type cleaner
- Clean cloths
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Any exposed interior metal surface, structural or decorative. metal parts of doors, railings, and other metal parts frequently touched require regular cleaning.
- Preparation of Materials
- If a neutral detergent solution is not available, prepare according to the manufacturer’s directions. Fill your plastic spray bottle about 3/4 full of clean water, and add the appropriate amount of detergent. Bottles are usually 1/8 to 1/4 of a gallon. Your measuring cup is eight ounces to a cup. Measure carefully.
- Preparation of the Area
- If metal to be cleaned is on a door in a high traffic area, it mat be necessary to prop it open so that the traffic and cleaning process do not interfere with each other.
- Instructions
- Spray the metal lightly with the mixed detergent solution.
- Wipe the area dry with a soft, clean cloth. For stubborn soil, it may be necessary to use the lotion or creme type cleaner.
- Put a small amount of the cleanser on a clean, damp cloth, and wipe the area clean.
- NOTE: Lotion and creme type cleaners are abrasive, and should be used only if a particular soil does not respond to the neutral detergent solution. Never use lotion or cremes on highly polished metals.
- Cleanup
- Rinse and wring dry any cloths used. If the detergent solution is left in the plastic spray bottle for future use, properly label the bottle according to the Right to Know rules in the RTK handbook.
Spot Cleaning Walls and Furnishing
- Materials
- Detergent solution in a plastic spray bottle
- Creme or lotion type cleaner
- Clean water in a plastic spray bottle
- Clean cloths and/or sponges
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Non-fabric, above floor surfaces that are frequently touched require cleaning most often. Areas around wall switches, elevator buttons, push plates on doors, and wall areas near telephones routine frequent spot cleaning.
- Preparation of Materials
- Dampen a cloth or sponge with clean water and wring it as dry as possible. If a properly diluted detergent is not already available, mix the solution. Fill your plastic spray bottle about 3/4 full with clean water, and add the appropriate amount of detergent. Dilution directions usually call for ounces per gallon. The bottles range from 1/8 to 1/4 of a gallon. Your measuring cup will be eight ounces to the cup.
- Instructions
- If the soiled area is non-electrical, spray the area with a small amount of detergent solution and wipe with a damp cloth. Never spray solution directly on top a switch, elevator button or other electrical device. Instead, spray a small amount onto the damp cloth, and use the cloth to clean the soiled area.
- For stubborn wall stains, it may be necessary to use the creme or lotion cleaner.
- Place a small amount of cleanser on a damp cloth or sponge and wipe the area. After cleaning, rinse the area with clean water. If non-electrical, spray the area with water from the clean spray bottle and wipe dry with a clean, dry cloth. For electrical areas, spray clean area on a clean cloth and wipe the area with this cloth.
- NOTE: Lotion or creme cleaners are abrasive, and can dull some finishes. Use only when absolutely necessary, and never on finished wood or smooth plastic surfaces.
- Cleanup
- Rinse and dry all cloths and sponges. If the detergent solution remains in the spray bottle for future use, label it properly as directed in the Right to Know rules in the RTK manual.
Wall and Ceiling Washing
- Materials
- Detergent
- Equipment
- Method A:
- Scaffolding or ladder
- 2 Buckets
- 2 Sponges or soft cloths
- Vacuum or triangular dust mop
- Large drop cloth (if needed)
- Method B:
- 2 Buckets
- Lightweight sponge mop
- Triangular dust mop or second sponge mop
- Sponges or cloths
- Large drop cloth (if needed)
- Method A:
- Preparation of Materials
- Make a detergent solution in one bucket of clear, warm water. Fill second bucket with clear, warm rinse water. Rinse water must be changed frequently.
- Preparation of the Area
- Remove all furniture, pictures and other objects from the area to be cleaned. Remove all excess dust and cobwebs from wall and ceiling with vacuum or dust mop. Use bottom to top stroke to catch cobwebs.
- Instructions – Method A
- Spread drop cloth to control spillages, and move it as you progress.
- Be sure that ceiling is washable, these techniques do not work with soft, spray acoustic materials. Begin at one corner of the ceiling. Sponge the detergent solution onto an area about four feet square. Use the same stroke each time.
- Wring the detergent sponge dry, and pick up the applied solution.
- Apply the rinse sponge to the same area, then squeeze dry and pick up the rinse water.
- Continue across the ceiling in this manner until finished.
- Begin at the top of the wall, and work toward the bottom, following the same washing and rinsing technique used on the ceiling. Try not to let the solution run down the wall.
- Wash adjacent woodwork and baseboards using the same methods.
- When possible, two workers should form a team, with one doing the top half, and the other following on the bottom half.
- Instructions – Method B
- Prepare materials and areas as in Method A.
- Again, be sure that the ceiling is a washable surface.
- Dip sponge mop in detergent bucket and squeeze it until it is wet but not dripping.
- Wet the ceiling or wall area to be cleaned. Work from the top down. To clean marks or heavily soiled areas, touch the mop head to the scouring paste, and rub the soiled area carefully.
- Rinse the area with the second sponge mop and the bucket of clear water.
- Clean the wall area closest to the ceiling with a hand sponge.
- Wash the adjacent woodwork and base with hand sponges.
- When possible, two workers should form a team with one washing and one rinsing.
- Cleanup
- Clean all equipment and return to custodial equipment storage area.
Cleaning Water Fountains
- Materials
- Cleaner disinfectant in a plastic spray bottle
- Lotion cleaner
- Metal polish
- Supply of clean cloths or sponges
- Percolator brush
- Rubber gloves
- Areas Where Applicable
- All porcelain and metal water fountains, free standing or built in.
- Preparation of Materials
- Prepare a cleaner disinfectant solution in a plastic spray bottle according to the manufacturer’s directions on the label. Dampen a sponge or cloth with the solution. Always wear rubber gloves when using disinfectant solutions, since these chemicals may irritate the skin.
- Instructions
- Spray cleaner disinfectant on all top surfaces of the drinking fountain.
- Wipe all surfaces with a sponge or cloth dampened with the solution making sure that the sponge or cloth is only used in the water fountain procedure, and not the restroom. Gross.
- If the basin of the fountain is stainless steel, wipe with a clean, dry cloth to prevent water spotting.
- Use a small amount of the lotion cleaner on a cloth to remove soil or mineral buildup. A small amount of lotion may be used on a percolator brush to remove soil and mineral deposits in the drain area and around the base of spigots and faucets.
- Rinse the area with clear water and wipe dry.
- Using a sponge dampened with cleaner disinfectant, wipe the sides and base of the drinking fountain. If sides are metal, use a metal polish to remove smudges and fingerprints.
- Cleanup
- Rinse and dry the sponges and cloths used. Properly label the spray bottle before storing it.
Cleaning Sinks and Washbasins
- Materials
- Cleaner disinfectant
- Lotion or creme cleanser
- Colored sponges
- Clean, dry cloths
- Plastic spray bottle
- Rubber gloves
- Small percolator brush
- Areas Where Applicable
- All restroom facilities, locker and athletic areas equipped with toilet facilities; classroom, medical, and laboratory areas where basins are provided for washup. Clean fixtures in these areas thoroughly and properly every day.
- Preparation of Materials
- If the cleaner disinfectant solution is not ready in a spray bottle, mix the solution in a bucket according to the directions on the label. During the normal restroom cleaning procedure, a bucket of cleaner disinfectant solution will be used to mop the floor. The plastic spray bottle can be filled from this bucket.
- Preparation of the Area
- The door to the rest room should be propped open or locked, and a sign posted, or some other indication given, that the area is being serviced, and is not to be used.
- Instructions
- Normally the first fixture to be cleaned in the restroom are the basins. They should be cleaned after the lights, mirrors, lights over the mirrors, towel dispensers, soap dispensers and other items in the area of the basins.
- Turn on the faucets to rinse the interior of the basin.
- Close the drain to make sure that the cloth or sponge will not catch on the drain plug. Spray the basin liberally with the cleaner disinfectant from the spray bottle and wipe with a damp sponge or cloth. Wipe the hardware also.
- Open the drain to let the disinfectant into it. Wipe the plug and rim of the drain with the sponge or cloth.
- Apply a small amount of lotion cleanser to the small percolator brush to clean residue and mineral build up in the drain area.
- Spray some cleaner disinfectant into the overflow hole, turn on the water and rinse the bowl.
- Wipe the hardware with a clean cloth or paper towel to prevent spotting.
- Wipe the skirts and sides of the basin with a dampened cloth or sponge. If heavily soiled, Spray first with the cleaner disinfectant solution before wiping.
- The bottoms of sinks and basins, and the pipes and valves do not need to be cleaned every time the tops are done. However, do not neglect these areas. Wipe them with a sponge dampened with the cleaner disinfectant solution every five or six times the basins are done, more often if needed.
- If a buildup of rust, soap or mineral deposits is apparent in the bowl of a sink or basin, use a small amount of lotion or cream cleanser on a dampened sponge to remove. Caution should be exercised when using these cleansers, especially on stainless steel or terrazzo constructed wash basins. Stainless steel will become dull and the seal coating on terrazzo removed if cream cleansers are used too often or rubbed too vigorously during cleaning.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- If only the basins are being cleaned, as in a lab or classroom setting, no restrictions are in order. If the entire restroom is being serviced, no use should be permitted while work is taking place.
- Cleanup
- Rinse all sponges and cloths. Wring the sponges and cloths as dry as possible and store them so that they will not become soiled, or used for other restroom fixtures, gross me out, and gag me with a spoon! Make sure to use different colors for these sponges from those used later on commodes and urinals. If the cleaner disinfectant solution is to be stored in the bottle for future use, label it properly as described in the Right to Know rules in the RTK manual.
Cleaning Cammodes
- Materials
- Cleaner disinfectant
- Acid-type bowl cleaner
- Colored sponges
- Clean, dry cloths
- Bowl mop
- Plastic spray bottle
- Rubber gloves
- Small plastic pail
- Areas Where Applicable
- All restroom facilities, locker and athletic areas with toilet facilities. Clean these areas thoroughly and properly every day.
- Preparation of Materials
- If the cleaner disinfectant solution is not ready in a spray bottle, mix the solution in a bucket according to the directions on the label. During the normal restroom cleaning procedure, a bucket of cleaner disinfectant solution will be used to mop the floor. The plastic spray bottle can be filled from this bucket.
- Preparation of the Area
- The door to the rest room should be propped open or locked, and a sign posted, or some other indication given, that the area is being serviced, and is not to be used.
- Instructions
- The commodes and partitions are cleaned after the sinks and basins, begin the cleaning by flushing the fixture.
- Spray the top of the toilet seat with a liberal amount of cleaner disinfectant solution and wipe it thoroughly with a damp sponge (or dip the sponge in the solution and wipe the seat).
- Wipe the seat thoroughly with a clean cloth.
- Raise the seat and spray the underside with the cleaner disinfectant and wipe it with the damp sponge. It should be dried with a clean cloth.
- Spray and wipe the entire surface of the fixture.
- Spray a liberal amount of cleaner disinfectant into the bowl. Using the bowl mop, thoroughly scrub all surfaces above the water level, paying particular attention the underside of the flushing rim.
- Flush the fixture, and follow the water line as it goes down with the bowl mop, scrubbing in a circular motion. After the inside of the bowl has been Thoroughly cleaned, flush the fixture one more time to ensure that all chemicals have been removed from the surface.
- Because of buildup due to minerals in the water, it may be necessary to occasionally use an acid bowl cleaner to clean the interior of the commode. If an acid based cleaner comes in contact with the eyes, immediately flush with clean water for fifteen minutes, and seek medical attention. To use the acid cleaner, first wet the bowl mop, and then pour the cleaner onto the mop over the bowl.
- Scrub vigorously under the flushing rim and at the water level to remove all buildup, rust and scale.
- Do not leave the commode unattended at this point if any dogs are in the area.
- Flush the fixture and follow the water line as it goes down with the bowl mop, scrubbing in a circular motion.
- Flush the fixture one more time to remove acid from all surfaces.
- After cleaning each commode, damp wipe all partitions, including the tops. Either spray with the cleaner disinfectant and wipe with a damp sponge, or dip a sponge in a pail of cleaner disinfectant solution and wipe all surfaces of the partition, remove any writing or drawing on the partition surfaces as Thoroughly as possible.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- No traffic should be allowed until all restroom cleaning has been completed.
- Cleanup
- Spray bowl mop liberally with cleaner disinfectant solution and rinse it thoroughly. Spray and rinse all sponges and cloths. Wring sponges and cloths as dry as possible and store so that they will be easily recognized by their color as materials dedicated to toilet fixture cleaning. If the cleaner disinfectant is to be used later, make sure that is properly labeled as specified in the Right to Know rule in the RTK manual before storing it.
Cleaning Urinals
- Materials
- Cleaner disinfectant
- Acid-type bowl cleaner
- Colored sponges
- Clean, dry cloths
- Bowl mop
- Plastic spray bottle
- Rubber gloves
- Small plastic pail
- Areas Where Applicable
- All restroom facilities, locker and athletic areas with toilet facilities. Clean these areas thoroughly and properly every day.
- Preparation of Materials
- If the cleaner disinfectant solution is not ready in a spray bottle, mix the solution in a bucket according to the directions on the label. During the normal restroom cleaning procedure, a bucket of cleaner disinfectant solution will be used to mop the floor. The plastic spray bottle can be filled from this bucket.
- Preparation of the Area
- The door to the rest room should be propped open or locked, and a sign posted, or some other indication given, that the area is being serviced, and is not to be used.
- Instructions
- After cleaning commodes and partitions, urinals should be cleaned with a method similar to that used for cleaning commodes. First the fixture should be flushed, and any waste that does not flush, removed.
- The walls above and to the sides of the fixture should be sprayed with cleaner disinfectant and wiped with a damp sponge.
- Spray and damp wipe all exterior surfaces of the urinal, including the base and areas underneath the urinal.
- Spray the interior of the urinal with a liberal amount of cleaner disinfectant solution. Beginning at the top of the urinal, scrub thoroughly with the bowl mop, particularly the underside of the upper flushing rim.
- Flush the fixture, and follow the water level down with the bowl mop, scrubbing vigorously.
- Flush the fixture again to remove remaining chemicals.
- It is periodically necessary to clean the fixtures with an acid type bowl cleaner. Begin by flushing the fixture and wetting the bowl mop. Pour the acid cleaner on the mop head while holding it over the bowl of the urinal. Be very careful, if acid cleaner gets in the eyes, flush with clean water for fifteen minutes and seek medical attention.
- Scrub the interior of the urinal thoroughly with the mop, especially around the edges and under the upper flushing rim. Scrub until all buildup, scale and rust is removed.
- Flush the fixture and scrub the lower part of the bowl as the water level decreases.
- Flush the fixture one more time to remove acid from surfaces.
- If there are partitions between the urinals, spray partitions with cleaner disinfectant solution and wipe with a damp sponge (or wipe with a sponge dipped in the solution).
- Pipes, valves and other hardware associated with the urinal should be damp wiped with the sponge and dried with a clean cloth to prevent water spotting.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- No traffic should be allowed until all restroom cleaning is complete.
- Cleanup
- Spray bowl mop liberally with cleaner disinfectant solution and rinse it thoroughly. Spray and rinse all sponges and cloths. Wring sponges and cloths as dry as possible and store so that they will be easily recognized by their color as materials dedicated to toilet fixture cleaning. If the cleaner disinfectant is to be used later, make sure that is properly labeled as specified in the Right to Know rule in the RTK manual before storing it.
Cleaning Tubs and Showers
- Materials
- Cleaner disinfectant
- Lotion or creme cleanser
- Shower stall cleaner
- Pump up sprayer or plastic spray bottles
- Sponge
- Clean, dry cloths
- Deck brush with handle
- Squeegee with handle
- Percolator brush
- Rubber gloves
- Areas Where Applicable
- All shower and restrooms in residence halls, locker rooms and athletic areas. Clean the fixtures in these areas thoroughly an properly every day.
- Preparation of Materials
- If the cleaner disinfectant is not already mixed in a pump up sprayer or spray bottle, prepare the solution in accordance with the manufacturer’s dilution directions.
- Preparation of the Area
- The door to the shower, locker, or restroom should be propped open or locked with a sign or some other indication that cleaning is in progress and the area is not to be used.
- Instructions
- Before cleaning, pick up all bits of soap from the dishes, floor gutter and drain areas. Remove hair and other debris from the drains.
- Using the pump up sprayer, completely cover all wall surfaces of the shower or tub area with cleaner disinfectant solution. A spray bottle may be used if the area to be cleaned is small or would not warrant preparing a large amount of cleaner disinfectant solution.
- Agitate the cleaner disinfectant solution using a hand held deck brush. Use a deck brush with handle for gang shower situations. use a sponge dampened with cleaner disinfectant solution to reach place that the deck brush cannot get, such as soap dishes, corners, chrome fixtures etc. A small amount of lotion cleanser may be used to remove built up soap from the soap dishes.
- Again using the pump up sprayer, completely cover the floor of the shower or tub area with cleaner disinfectant solution. Agitate the cleaner disinfectant solution with a deck brush; use a sponge in the bottom of a tub.
- Check the drain for scum or mineral buildup. If buildup is present, use a small amount lotion or creme cleanser on a percolator brush to remove it. If drains in shower rooms and locker rooms are not used for long periods, pour water into the drains at frequent intervals to keep the traps full so that sewer gas does not leak into the room.
- About every fifth or sixth cleaning, or when a buildup of mineral becomes apparent, apply a shower stall cleaner to the walls and floors. Always use eye protection, as shower cleaners are acid based. Agitate the cleaner using a deck brush or sponge. Use a brush with handle or sponge mop for gang showers. Immediately rinse walls and floors with clear water to prevent acid damage to tile grout. Do not use shower stall cleaner on tubs, instead use the lotion or creme cleanser. always read direction for shower cleaners, as some will react with metals, especially aluminum.
- Using a squeegee, remove excess solution from the wall and floor surfaces. Wipe all chrome fixtures with a clean dry cloth to prevent water spotting. If the shower area or tub has a shower curtain, thoroughly wipe with a sponge dampened with the cleaner disinfectant.
- Cleanup
- Rinse all sponges and cloths. Wring all cloths and sponges as dry as possible and store for subsequent use in cleaning showers and tubs. If shower stall cleaner has been used, thoroughly rinse all equipment in clear water, including spray bottles, deck brushes, sponges, and cloths.
Carpet Vacuuming
- Materials
- Commercial upright vacuum (with revolving brush and beater bar)
- Pile lifter type vacuum (with revolving brush powered by a separate motor)
- Wide area vacuum
- Tank vacuum with a wand and carpet tool
- NOTE: all of these types may not be necessary for maintaining a particular area of carpet.
- Areas Where Applicable
- All carpeted floors require regular vacuuming.
- Preparation of Materials
- Dirt bags should be emptied before any vacuuming is done.
- Belts, brushes and beater bars should be checked. Make sure parts are revolving in the proper direction.
- Preparation of the Area
- Unless only traffic patterns are being vacuumed, create as much open space as possible by moving items such as trash cans, chairs, and portable furniture.
- Instructions
- Carpet vacuuming can be divided into three basic processes: frequent vacuuming of traffic patterns using the standard upright vacuum; less frequent vacuuming of the entire carpeted area using the standard carpet vacuum, as well as hard to reach places that are handled with the tank type; and the infrequent vacuuming of open spaces using the pile-lifter. The frequency of each of these techniques depends on the soil level of the area and the level of care desired. The wide area vacuum is used for open spaces when the operator can save time and effort over a wide expanse.
- When using the standard upright vacuum to clean traffic areas, begin at one end of the carpet, and follow the traffic pattern to the other end or as far as the electrical cord will permit without stretching. Return along side and slightly overlap the edge of each previous pass. This pattern should be repeated two or three times for heavily soiled areas.
- When vacuuming the entire area is desired, the standard upright carpet vacuum should be used in the pattern described for the traffic pattern. the tank-type vacuum with wand and carpet tool is used for areas that are inaccessible for the upright machine. sometimes light soil from a hard to reach area may be brushed into an accessible area with a stiff brush or whisk broom to be vacuumed with the upright. Do not ignore these areas, as they will make the whole job look bad.
- When the pile lifter vacuum is used the same procedure should be followed.
- Follow the frequencies established for each type of vacuuming. Excessive use of power pile-lifters may cause damage to the carpet by loosening tufts from the backing or by pulling carpet loose from the floor or tack strips.
- The dirt bag on any vacuum should not be allowed to fill more than half way. it should be checked and emptied often. When emptying the bag, be careful to avoid spreading dust.
- Cleanup
- Empty all dirt bags. Wipe dust from the machine and cord with a clean cloth. Wind the cord properly around the hooks provided on the machine. Do not wind too tightly or damage may occur to the cord and/or electrical connections. Properly store the machine for future use.
Spot Cleaning Carpet
- Materials
- Shampoo solution in a plastic spray bottle
- Gong brush with stiff plastic bristles
- Stain removal kit
- Water extraction unit
- Supply of clean cloths
- Aerosol can of compressed gas
- Putty knife
- Areas Where Applicable
- Almost any carpeted floor of synthetic pile.
- Preparation of Materials
- Prepare a carpet shampoo solution in a plastic spray bottle according to the manufacturer’s directions.
- Instructions
- Before attempting to spot clean liquid spills, absorb as much of the liquid from the carpet as possible using cloths, paper towels, or a sponge.
- Apply shampoo solution from a spray bottle directly on the spot. Avoid excessive wetting of the carpet.
- Work from the outside of the spot to the center with a stiff bristled gong brush. This prevents spreading the spot over a larger area.
- Blot the shampoo solution from the carpet with clean cloths, paper towels, or a sponge. Repeat procedure several times, if necessary, or until the spot has disappeared.
- If the carpet is stained, and the material unknown, a stain removal kit may be used. Only designated individuals who are thoroughly familiar with the use of volatile solvents and chemicals should attempt to remove stains with a stain removal kit.
- For large area spills, a water extraction unit may be used. Refer to the procedure outlining water extraction for proper instructions on the use of this equipment.
- Gum or tar-like substances can be removed using compressed gas in an aerosol can and a putty knife. Freeze the substance by spraying the compressed gas directly on the material. Then lift the material from the carpet fibers using the putty knife.
- After removing spots from the carpet, allow the area to dry and vacuum to restore the pile to its original condition.
- Cleanup
- Thoroughly rinse the cloths and sponges, and wring as dry as possible prior to drying for storage. Properly label the spray bottle of shampoo solution if it is to be stored for future use, Refer to the labeling rules in the Right to Know manual. Clean and properly store the extraction unit.
Dust Mopping
- Materials
- Dust mop assembly
- Dust mop head
- Counter brush
- Dust pan
- Putty knife
- NOTE: the size of the dust mop head will depend on the situation. An 18 to 24″ size is best for offices and other congested areas, while a 36″, or wider mop should be used for corridors, gym floors, or other wide open areas.
- Areas Where Applicable
- Any smooth non-carpeted floor that is not wet or heavily soiled may be dust mopped. Rough floors such as brick, unsealed concrete, stone or brick pavers should not be dust mopped.
- Preparation of the Area
- Heavy soil should be removed by sweeping before dust mopping.
- Instructions
- For open areas, place the dust mop against the wall, and push it in a straight line as far as possible.
- If light objects such as trash cans are encountered, hold the mop in place in one hand and move the object aside with the other. Push the mop over the area where the object was, and repeat the procedure, replacing the object.
- At the end of each pass, turn the dust mop without lifting it from the floor and return, overlapping the previous pass by one or two inches. Continue this pattern until the entire area has been dust mopped, or visible soil begins to accumulate at the front edge of the mop.
- For small, congested areas, such as offices, begin at the door or entrance to the area and push the mop around the outside of the area. It is usually best to follow a counter-clockwise pattern with the last pass sweeping the center of the area, and then moving back out the door.
- After an area has been dust mopped, or when visible soil begins to accumulate at the front of the mop, the soil must be collected and the mop head cleaned. To remove the soil that does not cling to the mop, carefully lift the mop head off the floor, and lean the mop against the waste receptacle. be careful not to let the mop head touch walls, furniture, or other building surfaces. Brush the soil on the floor into a dust pan with the counter brush. Dump the dust pan into the waste receptacle, holding the pan as low as possible to prevent spreading dust.
- There are three ways that soil may be removed from the mop head: Vacuuming the head, brushing the head over a waste receptacle, and placing the head in a plastic trash bag and shaking it. Each of these methods yields adequate results, and the one selected depends on the location. If a vacuum is easily available, it may be used to vacuum the head. If trash bags are close at hand, shake it. If neither are easily available, use the counter brush to clean soil from the mop head while holding it over or in the waste receptacle.
- If gum or sticky substances are encountered while dust mopping, remove them with the putty knife.
- Cleanup
- Remove the dust mop head from the mop assembly and place it in the proper receptacle. If it is to be laundered and treated on the premises or collected and replaced by a dust mop service, it should be placed at the proper collection location. If the mop head is disposable, and of no further use, place it in a waste receptacle. The dust mop assembly should be properly hung in a tool holder. Wipe the dust pan and putty knife clean.
Manual Sweeping
- Materials
- Push broom (24″) with handle that reaches approximately eye level when the broom is resting on the floor with the handle straight up.
- Counter brush
- Putty knife
- Dust pan
- Waste container
- Areas Where Applicable
- Smooth floors that are wet or heavily soiled, usually around entrances, heavily used lobbies, vending and dining areas.
- Preparation of Materials
- Check broom handle to make sure that it is properly and securely fitted into the brush.
- Preparation of the Area
- Create as much open space as possible by moving lightweight items such as chairs, trash receptacles etc.
- Instructions
- Beginning in a corner, place the broom flush against the baseboard, and pull the soil approximately three feet from the wall.
- Go around all walls, or approximately twenty to thirty feet of each wall of a corridor.
- After the soil has been pulled away from the walls and congested areas, push it to a central area for pickup.
- Push the soil with short strokes of two to four feet. Strokes that are too short require excessive effort, while strokes that are too long make it difficult to control the soil.
- Use the putty knife to loosen gum or other sticky material.
- Push the soil onto the dust pan with the counter brush.
- Dump the soil into a waste receptacle. Hold the pan deep inside the receptacle to avoid spreading soil and dust.
- If no other cleaning is to follow, replace items that were moved.
- Cleanup
- Return all equipment to the proper storage area. Wipe the dust pan and putty knife clean. Hang broom and counter brush in the proper tool holder.
Spot Mopping
- Materials
- Detergent or cleaner disinfectant
- Mop bucket with wheels, 44 qt. capacity
- Wringer
- Mop handle, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user
- “Wet Floor-caution” signs
- Putty knife
- Hand scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Non-carpeted floors that are subject to soiling from sources other than traffic. Lounges, dining areas and laboratories that are frequently soiled by spills are examples of this type of area. Spot mopping may also be used where isolated soil occurs from leaks in equipment such as water fountains, radiators, vending machines etc.
- Preparation of Materials
- Properly attach the mop head to the handle. Fill the mop bucket approximately half full of clean, hot water. Add four ounces of detergent for each gallon of hot water, or add 1/2 ounce of cleaner disinfectant per gallon. A 44 quart bucket is eleven gallons.
- NOTE: Always put the water in the bucket before the cleaner or detergent. Do not use too much of either as it is wasteful, and can harm the floor finish. it may also leave a film or buildup on the floor that makes it more difficult to clean next time.
- Preparation of the Area
- Loose soil should be removed by sweeping or dust mopping before spot mopping begins.
- Instructions
- Dip the mop into the mop solution and agitate it slowly in order to mix the solution and saturate the mop head.
- Place the mop in the wringer, and wring it nearly dry.
- Mop the soiled area until all visible soil is removed.
- Stains and scuffs that are not removed by normal mopping should be rubbed with the heel of the mop. If this method is not effective, the putty knife or scouring pad should be used.
- After each spot of obvious soil has been cleaned, dip, agitate, and wring the mop before moving on to the next soiled area.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Avoid walking on the spots that have been mopped until they are completely dry.
- Cleanup
- Rinse the mop head and the scouring pad completely. Wring the mop head as dry as possible and hang it in the proper tool holder, head down, but with all the strings off the floor. Wash the wringer and buckets, inside and outside. Wipe the putty knife clean.
Damp Mopping
- Materials
- Detergent or cleaner disinfectant
- Mop bucket with wheels, 44qt. capacity
- Wringer
- Mop handle, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user
- “Wet Floor-caution” signs
- Putty knife
- Hand scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Non-carpeted floors that have been soiled by general traffic but are not dirty enough to require wet mopping. Corridors, exhibit areas, and lobbies are examples of areas that may require damp mopping as a part of a routine floor care program.
- Preparation of Materials
- Properly attach the mop head to the handle. Fill the mop bucket approximately half full of clean, hot water. Add four ounces of detergent for each gallon of hot water, or add 1/2 ounce of cleaner disinfectant per gallon. A 44 quart bucket is eleven gallons.
- NOTE: Always put the water in the bucket before the cleaner or detergent. Do not use too much of either as it is wasteful, and can harm the floor finish. it may also leave a film or buildup on the floor that makes it more difficult to clean next time.
- Preparation of the Area
- Loose soil should be removed by sweeping or dust mopping before spot mopping begins.
- Instructions
- Place the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges and the entrances to the area.
- Dip the mop in the solution, and agitate it slowly to mix the solution and saturate the mop head.
- Use a figure eight stroke to mop all open areas, particularly traffic patterns. Turn the mop over after every four or five strokes. Resoak and wring the mop whenever it collects a noticeable amount of soil.
- Stains and scuffs that are not removed through the normal mopping action should be rubbed with the heel of the mop. If this method is not effective, use the scouring pad or putty knife.
- Change the solution in the bucket when it becomes too dirty to be an effective cleaning agent.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Traffic should not be allowed in the area until the floor is completely dry.
- Cleanup
- Rinse the mop head and the scouring pad. Wring the mop head as dry as possible and hang it in the proper tool holder, head down, but with all the strings off the floor. Wash the wringer and buckets, inside and outside. Wipe the putty knife clean.
Wet Mopping
- Materials
- Detergent or cleaner disinfectant
- Two mop buckets with wheels, 44qt. capacity
- 2 wringers
- Mop handle, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user
- “Wet Floor-caution” signs
- Putty knife
- Hand scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Almost all non-carpeted floors require wet mopping at some time. Entrances, vending and dining areas, biological and medial labs, and rest rooms must be wet mopped frequently. Raised floors in computer rooms, cork floors, wooden floors that are not sealed, and badly worn linoleum floors should never be wet mopped.
- Preparation of Materials
- Properly attach the mop head to the handle. Fill the mop buckets approximately half full of clean, hot water. Add four ounces of detergent for each gallon of hot water, or add 1/2 ounce of cleaner disinfectant per gallon to the solution bucket. A 44 quart bucket is eleven gallons.
- NOTE: Always put the water in the bucket before the cleaner or detergent. Do not use too much of either as it is wasteful, and can harm the floor finish. It may also leave a film or buildup on the floor that makes it more difficult to clean next time.
- Preparation of the Area
- Loose soil should be removed by sweeping or dust mopping before spot mopping begins. Create as much open area as possible by moving items such as trash receptacles, chairs and portable furniture.
- Instructions
- Place the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges and entrances of the area. Dip the mop in the solution and agitate slowly to mix the solution and saturate the mop head.
- Place the mop in the wringer and squeeze until the solution quits dripping from the mop head.
- Beginning in a corner of the area to be mopped, place the mop head as near the base board as possible without actually touching it. Pull the mop along the edges of congested areas until an area of about 200 sq ft has been “striped”. If too large an area is mopped at one time, the solution will dry before it can be rinsed.
- Place the mop in the rinse bucket, agitate it, and wring it dry. Then place it back in the solution bucket and wring again until the head quits dripping. When wet mopping, never move the mop directly from the floor into the solution bucket, always perform the rinse procedure in the rinse bucket.
- Carefully apply solution to hard to reach areas. Then use a figure eight stroke to spread solution onto the open area, just overlapping the “striping” around the edges. turn the mop over every four or five strokes. Rinse, wring, and re-soak the mop whenever it starts spreading soil, or whenever it does not appear to be leaving enough solution on the floor.
- Stains and scuff marks should be removed by using the heel of the mop. If this method is not effective, use the putty knife or scouring pad.
- Change the rinse water or cleaner solution whenever either becomes dirty.
- After the area has been wet with solution, rinse the mop and wring it nearly dry. Following the same pattern in which the solution was put down, pick it up with the mop. Rinse the mop and wring it frequently. Change the rinse water as it collects soil.
- If an area is large enough to require mopping in sections, overlap each previously mopped section by about a foot.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- After an area has been wet mopped, do not remove signs, replace furnishings, or allow traffic until the floor is completely dry.
- Cleanup
- Rinse the mop head and scouring pad thoroughly. Wring the mop as dry as possible and hang it in the proper too holder, head down, with the strings of the floor. Wash the wringers and buckets, inside and outside. Wipe the putty knife clean.
Automatic Scrubbing
- Materials
- Detergent or cleaner disinfectant
- Auto scrubber
- Mop bucket with wheels, 44 qt capacity
- Mop handle, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user.
- Cotton mop head, 24-ounce (a lighter or heavier mop head may be used if it better fit the physical characteristics of the user)
- “Wet Floor-Caution” signs
- Putty knife
- Hand scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Any non-carpeted floors except raised floors in computer rooms, cork floors, unsealed wooden floors and badly worn linoleum may be cleaned with an automatic scrubber. However, it takes time to prepare and put away the machine and it is difficult to maneuver in congested areas. For these reasons, the auto scrubber is most effective in large, open areas. Large lobbies, galleries, exhibition areas and long corridors are areas where an automatic scrubber can be most effective.
- Preparation of Materials
- Check the squeegee to see that it is properly attached, and does not have any cuts or breaks. See that the valves for emptying the solution and pickup tanks are properly closed. Fill the solution tank with clean, hot water. Add the proper amount of detergent or cleaner disinfectant to the solution tank.
- NOTE: Always put the water in the solution tank before adding the detergent or cleaner disinfectant.
- Preparation of the Area
- Create as much open space as possible by removing such items as chairs, trash cans, and portable furniture. Loose soil should be removed by sweeping or dust mopping before auto scrubbing begins.
- Instructions
- Place the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges and entrances to the area.
- Move the machine into the far corner of the area to be scrubbed. Always keep the brushes and squeegee in the up position when the machine is being moved and is not scrubbing. Plan a pattern the allows the longest passes and fewest turns.
- Lower the brushes and squeegee, turn on the solution, and begin scrubbing along a wall or edge of the area. Scrub close to the walls, but remember, it is better to leave a small area unscrubbed than to damage the machine or walls.
- Continue scrubbing in as straight a line as possible to the end of the area. Approximately six feet before the end of the pass, the solution should be turned off. The machine should be turned as quickly as possible, and the solution turned on again at the end of the turn. Scrub parallel to the previous pass, overlapping it by one to three inches.
- Continue this back and forth pattern until all the open area has been scrubbed. Even with an effective vacuum and squeegee system, it is impossible to pick up all the solution. After an area has been scrubbed, any remaining spots of water may be picked up with a mop and wrung into the bucket. sometimes it possible to place the mop head on a towel on top of the scrubber with the mop handle pointed safely away from the operator or passers-by. Then, any puddles left by the machine may be conveniently picked up by the operator, and the mop wrung when the pattern takes the machine by the bucket. Some areas are too large to be scrubbed with one tank of solution. Whenever the solution tank is refilled, the pickup tank should be emptied in the same operation.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- After an area has been scrubbed, do not remove the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs, replace furniture and fixtures, or allow traffic until the floor is dry.
- Cleanup
- Drain both the solution and pickup tanks of the scrubber and flush each tank thoroughly with clean, hot water. rinse the brushes, brush cover, and squeegee. Wipe the squeegee and exterior of the machine with a clean cloth. rinse the mop head thoroughly, wring as dry as possible, and hang in the proper tool holder, head down, with the strings off the floor. Wash the wringer and bucket, inside and outside.
Spray Buffing
- Materials
- Suitable, polymer floor finish
- Detergent
- Single-disc floor machine
- Thick spray buffing pad (open weave)
- Driving block or pad holder
- Pistol-grip spray bottle (or spray buffing machine attachment)
- Hand scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Any floor coated with a synthetic polymer finish specifically developed for spray buffing (or any polymer floor finish that tests show holds up under spray buffing) can be spray buffed. However, spray buffing is less successful in heavily soiled, uneven, or extremely congested areas. Traffic patterns, places under desks and tables where people rub their feet an the floor, and areas just inside doors, where people turn after entering a room or building are areas where spray buffing can be particularly helpful.
- Preparation of Materials
- Be sure that the electric cord on the floor machine is in good condition. gently lean the machine back on the handle, check the driving block for proper installation and condition, and center the buffing pad on the driving block. prepare the spray buff solution by mixing one part synthetic polymer floor finish to one part water. If detergent solution is desired, add no more than two ounces detergent to each gallon of spray buff solution. Remember, the more detergent used, the more original floor finish will be removed with each spray buffing. Pour the solution into the spray bottle or spray buff attachment. Spray into an empty bucket or sink to adjust the nozzle until a proper spray pattern is achieved.
- Preparation of the Area
- Remove as much soil as possible by sweeping, dust mopping, spot mopping, or damp mopping before spray buffing. If possible, move tables, desks, and other pieces of furniture that may obstruct worn areas.
- Instructions
- Begin spray buffing by spraying a small amount of solution onto the floor in front of the floor machine. avoid spraying too much solution onto the floor as the pad will become too wet, and begin to grab. Buff back and forth across the area that has been sprayed allowing each arc to overlap the previous one by approximately one half the width of the pad.
- Repeating these steps, work forward until the entire area desired has been spray buffed.
- Do not spray areas that cannot be buffed because they are too close to a wall or other obstruction. Do not spray solution onto parts of the floor where people do not walk. Spraying onto these areas will cause an undesirable build up of floor finish, and cause the floor to require stripping earlier than would otherwise be necessary.
- When stains or scuffs are not removed by normal spray buffing, spray the spot with a small amount of solution, and rub it with the scouring pad. Before the solution dries, buff the spot with the floor machine until the stain is removed and the finish restored.
- After an area has been spray buffed, dust mop the floor completely to remove floor finish dust that may have been generated during the spray buffing. Other horizontal surfaces must also be checked. Door casings, window ledges, door lites, heating unit covers and similar surfaces are likely to collect dust from floor finishes.
- Cleanup
- Pour the remaining floor finish solution from the spray bottle into a clean, closed top container for future use. Rinse the inside of the spray bottle, and fill it with warm water. Spray this water in order to clean the nozzle. Remove the pad, brush it with another piece of spray buff pad, and wash it out under cold water. Wipe the cord and exterior of the machine with a clean cloth. Store the machine in the proper position with the cord properly wound around the handles or hooks provided on the machine.
Dry-Foam Carpet Shampooing
- Materials
- Dry-foam carpet shampoo
- Carpet spot cleaning solutions
- Equipment
- Pile-lifter type vacuum
- Dry foam carpet shampoo machine
- Plastic pail
- Funnel
- Measuring device
- Scrub brush
- NOTE: When shampooing carpets, have a wet vac available in case spills or malfunctions of the machine put excessive amounts of the solution onto the carpet
- Areas Where Applicable
- Almost any carpeted floor can be cleaned using the dry foam method.
- Preparation of Equipment
- The dirt bag on the pile lifter vacuum should be checked and emptied or replaced if needed.
- Preparation of Materials
- Using the plastic bucket and the measuring device, prepare the shampoo solution following the directions on the container. Using the funnel, carefully pour the solution into the tank on the carpet shampoo machine.
- Preparation of the Area
- Remove as much of the furniture from the area as possible. Treat stained areas with spot cleaning solution. Thoroughly vacuum the entire area with pile lifter vacuum. Areas that cannot be reached with the pile lifter, such as corners, should be brushed with the dry scrub brush or other stiff brush to bring loose soil into an area that can be reached with the vacuum.
- Instructions
- Be sure that shoes are clean, or wear clean, rubber overshoes while shampooing carpets.
- Before turning on the shampoo machine, follow the manufacturer’s direction for adjusting the height of the brushes to be compatible with the pile of the carpet. If the brushes are too high they will not clean properly. If the brushes are too low, there will be excessive wear on the carpet and unnecessary drag on the machine.
- Begin scrubbing next to a wall or edge of the area to be scrubbed. adjust the foam control, and pace the motion of the machine so that sufficient, but not excessive foam is applied to the carpet.
- Move the machine forward as far as possible in a straight line, then move the machine backwards over the same area.
- At the end of each forward and backward pass, move the machine to one side, and repeat this pattern on an adjacent area. The level of soil in the carpet determines the degree of overlap. If the area is heavily soiled, it may be necessary to overlap half of the previous pass for effective cleaning. in lightly soiled areas, an overlap of one to two inches may be sufficient. In case of an extremely heavily soiled carpet, it may be necessary to shampoo twice. The second shampooing should be at right angles to the first.
- Corners, and other areas not accessible to the machine may be shampooed by taking some of the foam generated by the machine and applying it manually with the scrub brush.
- Follow the manufacturer’s direction for removing any excess solution from the machine. This should be don in a non-carpeted area in case of spills
- After allowing about one hour to dry, vacuum the entire area with the pile driver vacuum. Make long, straight passes with the machine. After each forward pass, pull the machine backward over the same area to remove any footprints or wheel tracks.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Allow plenty of time for the carpet to dry before it is subject to heavy traffic. Drying time will vary considerably depending on temperature and humidity. When replacing the furniture in the area, place small pieces of plastic under the legs or other parts of furniture that might come in contact with the carpet. This will prevent stains from rust or wood stain if the carpet is still damp.
- Cleanup
- Empty and/or replace the dirt bag in the pile lifter vacuum. Wipe the exterior of the vacuum, including the cord, with a clean cloth. Rinse out the solution tank on the shampoo machine. Using a scrub brush and a cloth, remove all pile lint, foam, and dirt from the brushes of the shampoo machine. Wrap the cord properly around the hooks provided on the machine and store the machine in its proper position. Rinse out the plastic pail, the funnel, and the measuring device.
Carpet Cleaning – Water Extraction Method
- Materials
- Anti-foam emulsion
- Carpet shampoo specifically designed to be used with a water extraction system (to be used only on carpets that have never or seldom been shampooed).
- Equipment
- Pile-lifter type vacuum
- Water extraction carpet cleaning outfit
- Areas Where Applicable
- Almost any carpeted floor may be cleaned using the water extraction process. Most often, this technique is used intermittently with dry foam shampooing or some other carpet cleaning method. For example, if a carpeted area requires cleaning three times per year, it would be advisable to shampoo it twice and use the water extraction method for the third cleaning.
- Preparation of Equipment
- If paper dirt bags are used in the vacuum, a clean bag should be installed. If a permanent bag is used, it should be emptied and replaced. The water extraction outfit should be assembled according to the manufacturer’s directions. Some models must be hooked directly to a water source, while others have a tank on the machine which must be filled. Some manufacturers recommend the use of hot water with their equipment, others cold water, and others provide a heating element in the solution tank. Although hot water may react more quickly with shampoo residue in the carpet, cold water will generally provide adequate cleaning without risks of shrinkage, color bleeding, or damage to the carpet backing that may result from excessive use of hot water.
- Preparation of Materials
- Add the proper amount of carpet cleaner solution to the filled solution tank, only if the carpet has never been shampooed. If the carpet has been shampooed several times, there will be sufficient residue in the carpet for effective cleaning. Add the proper amount of anti-foam emulsion to the recovery tank and follow any specific directions given by the manufacturer of the emulsion.
- Preparation of the Area
- Remove all furnishings from the area. Thoroughly vacuum the entire area with the pile lifter vacuum. Isolated stains should be spot cleaned.
- Instructions
- Begin in a corner of the area. Stand next to one wall while facing another wall. Stand far enough back so that a comfortable reach will place the spray vacuum head against the base board (usually about three feet away).
- Activate the spray system while pulling the spray vacuum head away from the wall in a straight line.
- Shut off the spray about six inches away from the end of the stroke. If the spray vacuum head can be pushed easily, push it back to the wall, over the same path with the spray shut off. If the spray vacuum head cannot be pushed easily, but can only be pulled, lift it at the end of the stroke, return it to the spot where the pass began, and pull over the same area with the spray shut off. This technique gives each area a minimum of two passes, one with the spray and vacuum, and one with the vacuum only.
- After making the two passes described above, move the head and repeat the process.
- The degree of overlap, and the speed of the passes depends on how heavily the carpet is soiled. Along walls, baseboards and other areas that receive little or no traffic, the machine can be moved quickly and with as little overlap as possible without leaving streaks. In heavily soiled or high traffic areas, the spray vacuum head should be moved more slowly, and the passes should overlap fifty percent.
- The recovery tank must be watched and emptied whenever the foam gets within two to three inches of the top. If foam or water is allowed to enter the vacuum motor housing it may be damaged seriously.
- After the entire carpet has been cleaned, it should be allowed to dry for about one half hour, and vacuumed with the pile lifter vacuum. When vacuuming a carpet after it has been wet cleaned, the final passes should always be same direction.
- When returning furniture and accessories to a carpeted area which has just been cleaned, pieces of plastic should be placed under the legs and other furniture parts which may leave rust or wood stain marks on the carpet if it is still damp.
- Cleanup
- The recovery tank should be emptied. Any water remaining in the solution tank should be emptied, or may drawn into the recovery tank with the vacuum head. Both the solution and recovery tanks should be rinsed and wiped dry with a clean cloth. Rinse the vacuum head, hose and wand by running clean water through them. All exterior surfaces of the machine, including the cord, should be wiped clean and dry with a clean cloth. The dirt bag of the pile lifter vacuum should be emptied if it is a permanent bag, or replaced.
Scrubbing Floors
- Materials
- Neutral detergent
- Equipment
- Two mop buckets with wheels, 44 qt. capacity
- 2 wringers
- Two mop handles, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user
- “Wet Floor-caution” signs
- Putty knife
- Hand scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Areas Where Applicable
- Any non-carpeted floors other than raised computer room floors, cork floors, unsealed wood floors and badly worn linoleum floors may be machine scrubbed. Rest rooms and locker rooms are frequently machine scrubbed.
- Preparation of Equipment
- Properly attach the mop heads to the handles. Fill one bucket approximately half full of clean, hot water. Properly attach the driving block to the floor machine. Then attach and center the scrub brush or scrubbing pad.
- Preparation of Materials
- Add the proper amount of neutral detergent for reach gallon of hot water.
- Preparation of the Area
- Create as much open space as possible by moving items such as trash receptacles, chairs, and portable furniture. Remove all loose soil by sweeping or dust mopping before scrubbing.
- Instructions
- Place the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges and entrances of the area.
- Dip the mop into the solution and slowly agitate to mix the solution and saturate the mop head.Place the mop head in the wringer and squeeze down gently. Apply solution to the edges of the area by pulling the mop slowly along, but not touching, the baseboard.
- After the solution has been applied to the edges of the area, use a figure eight stroke to apply solution to the open area of the floor. Do not flood the floor. Turn the mop after every four or five strokes. Resoak the mop head when it begins to leave too little solution on the floor.
- Allow the solution to stand for four or five minutes.
- Following the same pattern in which the solution was put down, go over the entire area with the floor machine, overlap each previous arc by approximately one-half the diameter of the pad.
- After scrubbing the area, use a dry mop to absorb the solution. After several passes with the mop, place the head in the wringer of the empty bucket, and wring as dry as possible. NOTE: In larger areas, a wet/dry vacuum may be used for picking up this dirty solution.
- If the floor is heavily soiled, dump and rinse the solution bucket and fill it with clean water. Rinse one of the mops thoroughly. Rinse the scrubbed floor by damp mopping with this clean water.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Do not remove “Wet Floor-Caution” signs, replace furnishings, or allow traffic until the floor is completely dry.
- Cleanup
- Rinse the mop heads and scouring pads thoroughly. Wring the mops as dry as possible and hang them in the proper tool holder, heads down, with the strings off the floor. Wash the wringers and buckets inside and outside. Wipe the hand scraper clean. Remove the scrub brush or scrubbing pad from the floor machine and clean it thoroughly. Wipe the exterior of the floor machine and its cord dry and clean with a clean cloth. Store it in the proper position with its cord correctly wound around the hooks on the machine. If a wet/dry vacuum was used, empty and rinse it thoroughly. Remember to rinse the wand, hose, and floor tool.
Stripping Wax on Finished Floors
- Materials
- An appropriate floor stripping concentrate
- Equipments
- Two mob buckets with wheels, 44 qt capacity
- Two wringers
- Two mop handles, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user
- Two cotton mop heads, 24 ounce (a lighter or heavier head may be used if it better suits the physical characteristics of the user)
- “Wet Floor-Caution” signs
- Putty knife
- Scouring pad, must not be steel wool
- Measuring device
- Single disc floor machine with a stripping pad
- Wet/dry vacuum
- Areas Where Applicable
- All floors coated with conventional water emulsion floor finishes or waxes.
- Preparation of Equipment
- Assemble all equipment in the area to be stripped. See that buckets, wringers and mop heads are thoroughly clean. Properly attach the mop heads to the handles. Fill each bucket with about five gallons of clean, hot water.
- Preparation of Materials
- Add the proper amount of stripper to one bucket.
- Preparation of the Area
- All loosed soil should be removed by thorough sweeping or dust mopping before stripping. Gum or other sticky substances should be removed with the putty knife or scouring pad. Remove furnishings from the area.
- Instructions
- Place “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges or entrances of the area.
- Dip the mop into the solution bucket and lay it gently in the wringer. Beginning in a corner of the area, draw the mop slowly along, but not touching the baseboard. After the edges of the area have been “striped”, apply stripper to the open areas of the floor using a figure-eight stroke with the mop.
- Apply a liberal amount of solution to all area, but do not flood the floor.
- Allow the solution to stand for four or five minutes.
- Beginning in a corner, use the floor machine with stripping pad to go over the entire area in overlapping arcs.
- Pickup all solution with a wet/dry vacuum. If any areas appear to be drying before getting picked up with the vacuum, apply additional solution to these spots.
- Using the clean mop, and following the pattern in which the solution was put down, apply clean water fro the second bucket to the entire floor.. Pick up this rinse water with a wet/dry vacuum. NOTE: If a wet/dry vacuum is not available, solution and rinse water may be picked up using a mop, wringer, and bucket instead. When using this technique, it will be necessary to rinse the floor two or three times, rinsing the mop and changing the rinse water frequently.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Do not remove “Wet Floor-Caution” signs, replace furnishings, or allow traffic in the area until the new finish has been applied to the floor and allowed to dry.
- Cleanup
- Rinse the mop heads thoroughly. Wring the mops as dry as possible and hang them in proper tool holders, head down, with the strings off the floor. Wash the wringers and mop buckets inside and outside. Empty and thoroughly rinse the wet/dry vacuum, including the hose, wand and floor tool. Remove and thoroughly wash the stripping pad. Wipe the exteriors of the vacuum and floor machine with a clean cloth. Store the machines in the proper position with the cords properly wound around the hooks on the machine.
Applying Wax or Synthetic Floor Finish
- Materials
- Wax or floor finish
- Equipment
- Mop bucket with wheels, 44 qt capacity
- Wringer
- Mop handle, reaching from the floor to approximately eye level of the user
- Fine strand, rayon mop head, 24 ounce (lighter or heavier mop head may be used if it better suits the physical characteristics of the user)
- “Wet Floor-Caution” signs
- Areas Where Applicable
- Wax or synthetic finish may be successfully be applied to any resilient floor or terrazzo.
- Preparation of Equipment
- Properly attach the mop head to the handle. Since absolute cleanliness of the mop head is essential, it is better to use a new mop that has been soaked overnight, washed in detergent solution and thoroughly rinsed. The mop should not be allowed to dry completely, since a dry mop does not does not absorb certain types of floor finish quickly. Wash and thoroughly rinse the bucket and wringer.
- Preparation of Materials
- Pour a small amount of wax or finish into the bucket. Never return any product that is not used to the container, since it will contaminate what is left. One gallon of product normally provides one coat for about 1,200 square feet. It is better to begin with too little and have to return for more, than to waste excess product.
- Preparation of the Area
- The floor should have been stripped, rinsed, allowed to dry thoroughly, and protected from any traffic before the product is applied.
- Instructions
- Place the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges or entrances of the area.
- Dip the mop into the floor finish until it is saturated, then place it in the wringer and press down until it does not drip when lifted from the wringer.
- Begin in a corner, and pull the mop slowly along, but not quite touching the baseboard.
- After the baseboards and edges have been “striped”, use a figure-eight stroke to apply a thin coat of finish to the remainder of the floor. Each time the mop is soaked with finish, press it in the wringer until excess finish is removed. No finish should drip from the mop when it is lifted from the wringer, nor should an excessive amount of finish be put down when the mop first touches the floor.
- Allow the floor to dry at least one half hour before applying a second coat of finish.
- Apply a second coat of finish only to the open areas of the floor. Do not apply a second coat immediately next to baseboards and other areas that obviously receive little or no traffic. Use the figure eight stroke to apply the second coat. If the size and shape of the area permit, the pattern used to apply the second coat should be perpendicular to the first coat.
- After the second coat has dried, a third coat may be added to high traffic areas. NOTE: Although good quality floor finish dries to a shine without buffing, some improvement will result if the new finish is buffed after drying for twenty four hours.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Do not remove “Wet Floor-Caution” signs, replace furnishings, or allow traffic in the area until the floor is completely dry (at least one hour after the final coat). If the new finish is to be buffed, limit traffic until after the buffing operation.
- Cleanup
- Wash the mop head in detergent solution, rinse it thoroughly, wring it as dry as possible, and hang it in the proper tool holder head down, with the strings off the floor. The mop used for applying floor finish should be designated in the storage area, and not used for other cleaning tasks. Dispose of floor finish remaining in the bucket and wash the bucket and wringer thoroughly.
Applying Solvent Sealer
- Materials
- Solvent sealer
- Equipment
- Lambs wool duster
- Application pan
- “Wet-Floor-Caution” signs
- Areas Where Applicable
- Solvent sealer is used on floor where rough surface and/or porosity would otherwise make maintenance with water emulsion finishes difficult. Concrete floors, and wooden gym floors are the most common examples of solvent sealer use.
- Preparation of Equipment
- The applicator and pan must be completely clean.
- Preparation of Materials
- Fill the application pan approximately half full of solvent sealer.
- Preparation of the Area
- The area should be properly stripped, allowed to dry and protected from traffic before it is sealed. the area should have adequate ventilation, and any instructions or cautions on the container should be followed.
- Instructions
- Place the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs at the edges or entrances of the area.
- Dip the mop into the seal pan, lift it just above the level of the liquid and press it against the side of the pan to squeeze out the excess product until it does not drip.
- Beginning in a corner of the area, place the applicator as close as possible to the baseboard without touching it. Stand as far back from the baseboard as is comfortable and pull the applicator away from the wall in a straight line.
- Lift the applicator and place it just far enough to one side of the previous pass so that it will meet but not overlap it.
- Dip the applicator into the sealer as often as necessary to produce a a light, even coat.
- If there are expansion strips in the floor, use them as stopping points. this will prevent the presence of lap marks in the finish. Allow at least as much drying time as the manufacturer recommends and apply a second coat of sealer if desired.
- Restrictions on Use of the Area
- Do not remove the “Wet Floor-Caution” signs, replace furnishings, or allow traffic in the area until the floor is completely dry. Allow at least as much drying time as the manufacturer recommends.
- Cleanup
- Wash the applicator and the pan thoroughly with mineral spirits or other appropriate.
Daily and weekly routine worksheet
Custodial Services Table of Contents